History of The PESCHKOMRUTKA: 100km around Gagauzia
The PESCHKOMRUTKA: 100km around Gagauzia


PESCHKOMRUTKA's map






PESCHKOMRUTKA's History


1st Day: Comrat > Farapontica
Farapontica> Tomay

2st Day: Tomay > Joltay

3st Day: Joltay > Gaïdar

4th Day: Gaïdar > Ceadyr-Lunga
Ceadyr-Lunga > Cazaclia

5th Day: Cazaclia >(Taraclia)
(Taraclia) >Copceak

6th Day: Copceak > Vulcanesti

7th Day: back to Comrat!


1st Day: Comrat > Farapontica
Farapontica> Tomay





In the beginning we met two girls from Poland, Alice and Caroline, they came to meet Gagauzian people because one of them knows Turkish language and this is similar to Gagauzia language and she wanted to practice it. On first day we started in Komrat, we walked until Tomai. It was a 19 km and 4 hours walking but they weren´t very hard although I got blisters from the first 3 km until the last day. As the days went on, my blisters got better and, while my feet were hot it was not so painful but when the day finished my feet were on fire. In the middle of the way we stopped near the road to eat and drink something, we were talking about a lot of things; the weather, if we were tired, where the sandwiches where and of course, where the water was. After the meal we walked a little bit more until we arrived at Tomai. It was great when we arrived because it was the first day walking and, for me, it was the hardest. We met some people and, finally, one old woman told us that we could ask in the city hall for shelter and so we did. The mayor was so great and he asked us why we haden´t called before because he was organizing something for us. We were surprised. He took us to the house of culture and he showed us to one place on the second floor where we could sleep. he called some girls from Tomai and they were singing for us. It was incredible but the most amazing thing was that, after the singing, the mayor offered us some tea and he took us to another. There, there was a big table with a lot of food; tomatoes, carrots, salads, potatoes, cookies, wine, water and also tea. We were eating, singing, talking and at last we ask what is Gagauzia for you, the wrote a little bit and we finished the day sleeping in our sleeping bag in the secord floor.

Sergio Pérez-Sanchez, Spanish volunteer


2st Day: Tomay > Joltay




The journey was difficult and tiring but beautiful and interesting. After Tomai, we started the ascent of Joltai. We were tired when we finally arrived but the city was beautiful. We took a rest 5 minutes next to sign at the entrance of Joltai.
We visited the city, quiet and pleasant, but unfortunately isolated from the rest of Gagauzia. We went to a store to recover ourselves. After a 20 km walk, it's a well-deserved break! We went to the town hall to find a place to sleep. We spoke to the secretary and to the rest of the staff. One of the women in the town hall offered to host us, we were really lucky! We went to her house. We met her friends, they help our hostess to prepare food. We took our shower one after one, we really deserved it. We played with the children of Joltai. We gave them origamis. We took some photos. One of the Babushka sang songs for us in Gagauz. It was a perfect moment. We were preparing the table all together, we ate a delicious soup prepared by the wonderful grandmothers. We picked up the milk for the morning at the neighbour's, our little sidekick, one of the children we met before, was a bit annoying but funny. We went back at our hostess. Then, one of her friends invited us to her house, where we talked, sang, danced an extraordinary moment full of joy and sadness at the same time, when we listened the stories of this old lady. After that we returned to the house. We slept in comfortable beds. The next morning, a breakfast awaited us. Everything was perfect, the rice pudding was really delicious. We are satiated. Before leaving, our babouchka gave us a pair of socks. It is really very nice. With all that, we were prepared to continue our journey.

Arnaud Delannée, French volunteer


3st Day: Joltay > Gaïdar



After a delicious breakfast at the home of our in Joltai, we shortly visitedthe little village, where we had spent the night. Once again, overwhelmed by the hospitality of the Gagauzians, we received a gift from a man, who had heard that a group of crazy Europeans was visiting the village. Freshly picked peaches and honey! Back to eating ...
The sun was rising, so we set off to walk to Gaidar. On our hard and long way without stop we received greetings from cars ... pipiiipiiii. It's hard for a car driving 120km/h to express friendliness in another way ...
Finally we began to see the village in which we would sleep that night- Gaidar is situated in a beautiful and small valley.
After drinking and eating our fills, we started to walk in order to find accommodation. We met a couple, which, when they heard, that we didn´t have a place to sleep, quickly called the mayor to explain him the situation. In just not more than 5 min the mayor, enthusiastic about our trip, organized our night: We would sleep in a kindergarten! Again pleasant beds! Small, but beds. But that was not all ... to our surprise, the couple and a lady who works in the kindergarten, began to bring us food and drinks for about 30 people. But still they were not satisfied and they asked us to forgive them, because they didn´t offer anything more ... These people do not cease to amaze me.

Cristina Martinez-Lopez, Spanish volunteer


4th Day: Gaïdar > Ceadyr-Lunga
Ceadyr-Lunga > Cazaclia




After waking up in our pink dream (the kindergarten of Gaïdar) we enjoyed a breakfast with yesterdays remains(still enough to feed football team) and set off to Ceadir-Lunga. 11 kilometres, obviously 11 too many for Ludivine shoes, that didnt make their way one of the three biggest towns in Gagauzia, but directly the trash bin. Our travel seemed to be endangered! But within a risky manoeuvre our dear mentors send another pair of shoes by Marschrutka (yes, its possible!) to Ceadir-Lunga. Thank you! And after beer and pizza (for our gentlemen), a boyfriend call (Cristina), a short visit to the women convent (Ludivine, Alicija and me) and internet access for all, we chugged on to KASAKLIA! For crossing the Bulgarian village Konten, we did hitch-hiking, cause as you know, the PESCHKOMRUTKA only operates in Gagauzia or maybe we were just tired. Anyway the last seven kilometres we took by feet and found a new friend on the way, a cat, which has chosen to be part of our vagabond gang. Fair enough, after 2 km finally she opted to stay with a shepherd, which might offer her a more stabile future. It was already around seven in the evening, when climbed the last hill to enter Cazaclia. Sunset, shepherds and the blue church Wow. We sat down in the central magazine, said to each other an honest Malediez and ate. It was the last night for our polish friends (and translators) and we spent it in the hospital! Mamas and Papas out there: Dont worry! We were completely uninjured (beside our smell, of course). But in the hospital are the best beds of the town to be found. Thanks to the mayor of Cazaclia to organize this! We slept between medical equipment and machines like drivelling stones.

Sophie Haaz, Austrian volunteer


5th Day: Cazaclia >(Taraclia)
(Taraclia) >Copceak





bip bip bip Hard wake up. First, these beds are definitely too great to wake up at 5:30am. Then, it's time for the Polish girl to leave us. We share addresses, last compliments, and separate. One part of the travel is already behind us. But no time to spare, the sun burn and we have again 20km to hike until the next step: Copceak. After a tea offered by the Emergencys' nurses (it's definitely impossible to go and leave a place without being offered some sweets or provisions ) we start our walk on the rhythm of Yo Yo Yo un Pirata soy.
11pm: we arrive in Taraclia. A nice bulgarian townon Moldovian territory. No time to spare here ! We have lunch , take a small rest and take the road again, in a hurry to go back in Gagauzian territory! (we thought about take the plane, or to teleport ourselves, but all our tentatives failed).
Despite some other tea invitation on the way, we were going straightforward, determined to our reach goal. Soon though, we have to stop again. - A 2nd cat ! Yes, another one.. If we can say that this half-moving-thing is still alive.. Peschki is now also part of the travel ! We don't know if he will survive, but we don't feel like leaving him dying of starve here.
We were in fact really close to Copceak ! Like usual, we take a break in a coffee and make our plan for the night. This time, it will be camping ! A nice lake caught our attention at the entrance of the town.
We split the team: Sophie and Sergio will pitch the tent and Arnaud, Ludivine and Cristina will buy some products and home-made wine.
2hours later, after a small pause in the super nice sport gymnasium of Copceak, some thea and cookies for the team 2, 2hours waiting for food for team 1, we start to set up a pic-nic. But, miss ! Thunder start to rolls, and we have to go under a bus shelter to escape from the rain.
Here, comfortably sited, tired but happy, we start tasting the delicious Copceak home-made wine. But..we don't stay alone for a long time.. because soon, arrive a 10 children-group to welcome us. We chat and improvise a small musical show La bohêmeee, la bohême..! The night falls, and some youth join. The news of our arrival was spead in all the village !
They propose us to make a fire near the tent. There, we sing again, and discuss a long time in Russian, English, German..
Eventually, even today, we won't escape to the Gagauzian tradition: never leaved a guest without greetings and presents!

Ludivine Ricou, French volunteer


6th Day: Copceak > Vulcanesti




As you know our last night the hard-boiled among us spent in the tent. Peschki, the new member of our reckless gang, decided not to separate anymore from her hero after her near-death experience and decided to sleep (and piss) on Sergios back and head. Anyway in the morning Sergio was pretty annoyed and mumbled incomprehensible Spanish words in his beard (cabrona? for Peschki?). He stopped immediately when he was reminded, that he was appalled even by the idea to let Peschki sleep outside of the tent. So we opened the tent and enjoyed the seascape pardon- lakescape. We saw that our empty bottles from yesterday were already recycled by somebody- therefore put in the fire. Gagauzian style. Meanwhile our bourgeoisie (namely Arnaud and Ludivine) arrived, after sleeping on a couch in the house, having tea AND TAKING A SHOWER! Group Tent was not so amused by this fact, cause our skin colour was not only determined by suntan. Anyway again on the road (Peschki sleeping on Sergios back) we met Esther and her brothers, which we got to know the day before in the bus station. Esther, who was herding the family cow, gave us an awesome tour through the former garbage landfill of Copceak. The area has now recovered its awesome landscape of sandstone, small rivers, bridges and childrens caves and serves now as pasture for cows and sheep. After exchanging numbers and directions with Esther, two of her brothers offered to show us a spring and a place to swim on the way to Vulcanesti. Yes, to swim! We couldnt believe it and asked about ten times Moschna plawat? just in order to receive a positive answer. After 2 hours, we realized how gentle this offer from our two new guides was. Barefoot in the blistering heat they walked ahead us, additionally teaching Arnaud how to count in Gagauzian. Finally arrived at the canal, we jumped into the water like we have spent years and years in the desert (or two days without shower). Arnaud and his tschut tschut infekstia (three open and suppurating wounds) had to stay outside. Arnaud- dont hate us, it was for your best. Refreshed we arrived in Vulcanesti, warmly welcomed by our dear friend Demian and his mother. With pasta in tomato sauce and accordion music the Peschkomrutka found an honourable end. Thank you Demian! We love you.

Sophie Haaz, Austrian volunteer


END..
 



This project and web page are prepared with the financial support of the Youth in Action programme.
The Youth in Action programme shall not bear any responsibility for the opinion therein.
The authors

Sergio Pérez Sánchez-Fuentes Evs volunteer for 6months

Ludivine Ricou France, Evs volunteer for 6months

Permanent members of Miras Moldova organization
Inna Gordeeva, mentor, subtitles and support
Olga Ceaiuc, director coordination of the organization


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